Showing posts with label Los Angeles. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Los Angeles. Show all posts

Friday, 2 February 2018

Clifton's: LA's Retro Cafeteria Lives Again

From 1935 to 2011, Clifton's Cafeteria served meals on Los Angeles' Broadway as the LA Downtown went from boom to bust, then gradually became fashionable again. 

I visited the legendary eatery in 2015, when I was being hosted by Discover LA. It had just reopened after extensive renovations, intended to update it for the 21st century while not losing too much of its retro appeal.

Here's what I found...

Clifton's attractive retro exterior gives way to a wild interior. Simple wooden tables are set on four cascading levels, tiered as if placed on a hidden hillside.

Each of these terraces has a rough-hewn look, with massive timber logs holding up the roof and criss-crossing each other.

This faux forest look is enhanced by murals of more trees, and pot plants scattered between the tables. There's also a big fake bear above the entrance, captured in mid-growl.


Facing the bear is a rough castle facade, and a staircase leading up to a bar area.

All this cheesy splendour is backed up by the soundtrack, a selection of mid-20th century popular songs: All of Me, You Ain't Got That Swing, various jazz tunes.

The bar area is impressive, the void in its centre dominated by a hollow tree trunk rising up several storeys.

Beyond the crazy tree there's more of the feel of a Western saloon, with waistcoated bartenders pouring drinks to customers seated on bar stools, or lounging in armchairs.

The downstairs cafeteria is the prime focus, however.

In addition to its outlandish decor, Clifton's was famous for not turning anyone away, subsidising the meals of those who couldn't afford to pay.

There's still an original water feature by the entrance with a plaque asking people to toss in coins to help the needy.

Past the tables, diners enter the kitchen area, which is laid out like a food hall with separate counters serving burgers, roast meats, salads, deli-style sandwiches and desserts.

You collect what you fancy, then pay for the lot at one of the tills on the way back to the tables.

If the tray is a bit unwieldy or too heavy to carry up the stairs to a table, one of the energetic resident busboys in their striped shirts will take it there for you.

Even when I call in on a Monday afternoon it's extraordinary how much energy there is in the place - from the lively music, the busboys hurtling to and fro, and the buzz of conversation from diners stimulated by the over-the-top decor.


Attempting to assemble a vegetarian meal (not so easy, considering the meat-heavy menu), I select three side dishes from the burger counter - a bowl of sauteed vegetables, a serve of mac and cheese, and a serve of fries.

Not entirely healthy, but tasty in combination, with a sachet of hot sauce drizzled over the mac and cheese.

This is teamed with a large, chilled glass of lemonade, a drink the Americans do inordinately well. It has just the right balance of sweet and sour, with a refreshing crisp chill. Perfect.

And the whole thing costs me just US$11.98. Fine by me.

Clifton's is located at 648 S Broadway, Los Angeles, USA. See cliftonsla.com.

Friday, 8 December 2017

One Trip, Multiple Stories: A Travel Writer's Rail Journey in West Coast USA

For the journey detailed below, I paid for my airfares and received on-the-ground assistance from local tourism authorities and hotels. Full disclosures are included with each linked article and blog post.

This is, remarkably, my 500th post at Aerohaveno. I started the blog way back in 2008, during the golden age of blogs, when social media outlets such as Facebook were new and yet to be adopted by the masses.

In that era, a blog was the prime means for an individual to put their views online, whether on a topic of expertise or simply as personal reflection.

Now we have the noise and colour of social media, and perhaps wonder if things are better.

In any case, for post number 500 I'd like to repeat what I did for post 400 - draw back the curtain on how travel writing works, at least for a freelancer like me.

In post 400 I looked at a trip I undertook around the world. This time I'll focus on the west coast of the USA.

In October 2015 I flew into Los Angeles, then caught Amtrak trains up the west coast with visits to San Francisco, Portland and Seattle along the way.

I've chosen this 2015 trip because the period elapsed since then has been long enough for almost everything I wrote about it to be published.

Below I'll outline how each activity led to a specific piece of writing - with a link to the published article or blog post.

Are you sitting comfortably? Then we'll begin.

Monday 12 October 2015

Activity: Fly Qantas from Melbourne to Los Angeles.
  1. Resulting story: A review of Qantas' Premium Economy class for Fairfax Media's Traveller website in Australia.
  2. Blog Post: Catching public transport from LAX to Downtown LA.
Activity: Check out the renovated and reopened Clifton's Cafeteria in LA's Downtown.
  1. Resulting story: A short item about Clifton's in a round-up of 2015 travel finds for Fairfax Media's Traveller website and print section in Australia. 
  2. Second resulting story: An article about Downtown LA highlights for roundtheworldflights.com [story not currently online].
Tuesday 13 October to Wednesday 14 October 2015


Activity: Take the guided studio tours at Warner Brothers, Universal Studios and Paramount Pictures.
Resulting story: An article about LA movie studio tours for Lonely Planet's website.

Wednesday 14 October 2015


Activity: Visit new Australian-owned café, Paramount Coffee Project.
Resulting story: An article about Aussie-owned food and coffee outlets in LA, for Fairfax Media's Good Food website in Australia.

Thursday 15 October 2015


Activity: Explore new contemporary art gallery, The Broad, in LA's Bunker Hill.
  1. Resulting story: A short item about The Broad in a round-up of 2015 travel finds for Fairfax Media's Traveller website and print section in Australia.
  2. Blog Post: My visit to The Broad.
Activity: Visit the Museum of Jurassic Technology in Culver City.
  1. Resulting story: An article listing six quirky attractions of LA, including the Museum of Jurassic Technology, for Lonely Planet's website.
  2. Second resulting story: Commissioned for an Australian media outlet, but yet to be published.
Friday 16 October 2015


Activity: Catch the Coast Starlight sleeper train north from LA to Oakland (for San Francisco); then later onward to Portland and Seattle.
  1. Resulting story: An article about the entire rail trip for the magazine Get Up & Go in Australia.
  2. Second resulting story: An article about the sleeper train experience for Fairfax Media's Traveller website and print section in Australia.
Saturday 17 October 2015


Activity: Join the eccentric Emperor Norton's Fantastic San Francisco Time Machine tour.
Resulting story: An article about the tour's highlights for Fairfax Media's Traveller website in Australia.

Sunday 18 October 2015

Blog Post: Review of the long-running musical revue Beach Blanket Babylon.

Monday 19 October 2015


Activity: Attend the North Beach Underground tour of San Francisco, focusing on the Beat Generation.
  1. Resulting story: A 'Postcard from San Francisco' article for the Spectrum (culture) section of The Age newspaper in Melbourne.
  2. Blog Post: Profile of six memorable tours of San Francisco.
Blog Post: San Francisco's retro public transport.

Thursday 22 October to Sunday 25 October 2015

 
Activity: Visit Voodoo Doughnuts, Stark's Vacuum Cleaner Museum, Powell's City of Books and other offbeat attractions in Portland, Oregon.
Resulting story: A list of 'Ten attractions keeping Portland weird' for Fairfax Media's Traveller website in Australia.

Blog Post: Memorable street art of Portland.

Saturday 24 October 2015

 
Activity: Join a food walking tour of North Mississippi Avenue, Portland.
Resulting story: An article about highlights of the tour, for Fairfax Media's Good Food website in Australia.

Blog Post: A visit to Stark's Vacuum Cleaner Museum, Portland.

Sunday 25 October 2015

Blog Post: A tour of Portland's coffee culture.

Monday 26 October 2015

 
Activity: Take a coffee walking tour of Seattle, Washington.
Resulting story: An article about the city's coffee highlights for Fairfax Media's Traveller website in Australia.

Wednesday 28 October 2015

Blog Post: Visiting Seattle's Living Computer Museum.

Thursday 29 October 2015

 
Activity: Travel to Snoqualmie and North Bend, to visit locations from the TV series Twin Peaks.
  1. Resulting story: A 'Postcard from Twin Peaks' article for the Spectrum (culture) section of The Age newspaper in Melbourne.
  2. Second resulting story: An article about Twin Peaks locations for Lonely Planet's website.
  3. Blog Post: My visit to Twin Peaks locations.
Sunday 1 November 2015

Blog Post: Taking a tour of Underground Seattle.

Monday 2 November 2015

Activity: Fly from Seattle to Los Angeles via Alaska Airlines.
Resulting story: A review of Alaska Airlines' domestic Economy class for Fairfax Media's Traveller website in Australia.

Activity: Fly Qantas from Los Angeles to Melbourne.
  1. Resulting story: A review of facilities at LAX for roundtheworldflights.com [story not currently online]. 
  2. Blog Post: Review of the new Qantas International Business Lounge.
And that's that! I arrived back home on Wednesday 4 November, courtesy of the International Dateline.

Writing output, financial income

By my count, the trip produced a total of 18 paid articles for outside publications (with a 19th yet to be published and paid for), and 12 posts on this blog.

I calculate the paid articles earned a total of $8850.72 (all figures here are in Australian dollars) for both words and photos, before adding any applicable sales tax.

About another $500 should come in from the final article. And there was additional research undertaken on the trip which I may yet write about, as well as revisiting its attractions in new ways.

The blog posts don't earn any direct income, but drive traffic to Aerohaveno and thus contribute to the occasional small payments I receive from the Google Ads running on my blog.

Expenses

I had significant expenses on this journey, especially since I was paying my own airfares on this occasion.

Including airfares, I estimate my total expenses on this trip at $3028.26, which leaves a profit of $5822.46 (plus $500 from the unpublished article, and possible income from future stories derived from the same research material).

Some trips have a greater return on outlay, others less so. Quite aside from the profit, however, this west coast USA trek turned out to be one of my favourite journeys ever, and I was very glad I'd taken it.

It's not easy to make a living from travel writing; but if you can derive a published story per day from a particular trip, you're off to a decent start.

After this epic post, it's time for a break! Aerohaveno will be taking a break over the holiday season, and will be back with you in early January. Have a great New Year!

Friday, 12 May 2017

The LA You Don't Know

This article was originally written for the magazine of a travel agency, which was later bought out and never published it. So here it is, for your enjoyment (Disclosure: I've generally been assisted by the Los Angeles Tourism and Convention Board when visiting LA).

If you ask travellers what they know about Los Angeles, they’ll mention some obvious elements off the top of their heads. There’s Disneyland, of course, and the Pacific coast. Hollywood, the home of the movie industry. And linking them, plenty of spaghetti-like freeways.

These are all there, of course, but there’s much more to LA once you take the time to explore its lesser-known districts and its quirkier attractions. Here are several things to try when you’re next in the Californian city.


Eat a French Dipped Sandwich

This classic sandwich has been a popular LA treat since 1908, and the best place to eat it is Philippe the Original. An old-fashioned diner on the edge of Chinatown, it boasts retro decor, sawdust on the floor, and an old-school candy counter.

Its famous French Dipped Sandwich was created when a roast beef sandwich was accidentally dropped into a roasting pan. The customer who ate it loved the result, so since then the beef-and-gravy sandwich has been on the menu.

Nowadays it’s prepared with a rich jus which has been rendered from roasting pan drippings and beef stock over two days. Eat it with pickles and potato salad at one of the long timber tables, maybe with a beer on the side.

Soak Korean-style

West of LA’s Downtown is Koreatown, a sprawling neighbourhood populated by migrants from South Korea. It’s a great place to try Korean food, of course, but also to immerse yourself in a jjimjilbang.

The main attraction of this traditional Korean bathhouse is its series of heated baths. They’re segregated by gender, and it’s an all-nude experience – no swimming costumes allowed. After soaking, patrons get dressed in the provided T-shirt and shorts, and head to the communal relaxation areas which offer dining and entertainment options.

One of the best places to experience the Korean bathhouse in LA is Wi Spa, located near MacArthur Park.


Stroll along Broadway

In past decades the Downtown district was a dodgy part of Los Angeles, and best avoided. Now it’s returning to its past glory as gentrification takes hold, and is worth visiting for the impressive old cinema facades along Broadway.

Owned by the city’s famous movie studios a hundred years ago, these picture palaces were once the showcases of Hollywood’s finest output. Now they fulfil a variety of uses, from shopfronts to live music venues, and some still screen films.

At 10am each Saturday, the Broadway Historic Theatre and Commercial District Walking Tour heads along this street, showing off its architectural highlights.


Meet a Different Kind of Star

There are plenty of stars in Hollywood, but you can raise your eyes to the original stars at Griffith Observatory. Situated on hills overlooking Los Angeles’ busy sprawl, this scientific complex is a beautiful example of art deco architecture.

Acting as an astronomical museum, its interior includes exhibits both old and new, along with a planetarium. From the outdoor terraces there are great views over the city, and you can also spot the famous Hollywood sign.

Carry a Tune in a Music Hub

On the western edge of the Downtown is LA Live, a complex of entertainment venues and restaurants. Within its contemporary architecture you’ll also find the Grammy Museum, dedicated to every aspect of music.

Over several levels, visitors learn about music genres from rock to soul, via interactive displays and audio recordings. There are also exhibits dedicated to particular singing stars.


See a Real Spaceship

The California Science Centre is the home of many fascinating exhibits involving science and nature. The most impressive of these by far is the Space Shuttle Endeavour. This enormous real-life spacecraft is suspended above the heads of visitors, allowing for a sweeping view of its sleek exterior.

Beyond this spectacular sight, it’s also possible to get up close with the early years of space travel. Encased within transparent shells is a Gemini 11 space capsule, and an Apollo capsule similar to the one that first took men to the Moon. For some hands-on excitement, you can also experience a mission within a Space Shuttle simulator.

For more details of LA's attractions, visit DiscoverLosAngeles.com.

Friday, 6 January 2017

What's Hot in Travel in 2017 (Entirely According to Me)

Well, it worked all right last year. So So here's my Hot List for Travel in 2017, randomly based on my recent travel experiences. All items tenuously included because, well, I like them.

1. Lviv is the new KrakĂłw. Seriously people, why aren't you in this Ukrainian city right now? If I didn't have other commitments after my May visit, I'd still be there.

As I said in this blog in June 2016, I love Lviv. It's a beautiful city of faded but glamorous baroque architecture, it has a thriving coffee scene, and it's incredibly cheap right now - as in "tram tickets cost ten cents" cheap.

It's also just over the Polish border and a long way from the Russian-backed insurgency in the east; about 1200km from troubled Donetsk, for example.

Lviv feels exactly like what it is - a piece of Central Europe that's come adrift and ended up in Eastern Europe (it was previously part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, then Poland). Go there. You'll thank me.

2. Los Angeles is more than Hollywood and Disneyland. In 2016 I visited LA for the fourth year in a row, and as usual I discovered a plethora of interesting attractions beyond the city's stereotypical drawcards.

I visited a bunch of great science museums; visited late-night comedy clubs; ate tasty cheap food in the Downtown; and saw a musical in a beautiful old 1920s theatre.

I also hung around cool neighbourhoods such as Silver Lake and Echo Park, and joined an intriguing true crime tour about an infamous unsolved murder.

And that was just 2016! If you scroll down through my North America travel stories here, you'll find loads more quirky LA attractions I've visited over the past few years. Yes it can be difficult to get around, but Uber and the city's expanding Metro rail network can help with that.

3. Polish food and drink. It's come a long way from cabbage and dumplings (though those pierogi are still great). As I wrote here last May, there's an affordable and tasty range of food experiences to be enjoyed across Poland.

These range of the retro delights of communist-era milk bars, enjoying a hipster resurgence in popularity; to interesting fusions of traditional Polish cooking with international ingredients and flavours such as I enjoyed at the Gothic Restaurant within Malbork Castle.

Polish beer and vodka have always been good, but the classics have been joined by an explosion of craft beers. I even enjoyed great Polish cider while in Warsaw. As a local explained to me, when the Russians banned Polish food imports, Poles had to find something to do with the excess fruit. Russia's loss is our refreshing gain.

4. All-inclusive luxury rail journeys. I wrote about rail "cruises" in my 2016 list, but I've recently travelled aboard the Indian Pacific and that's reinforced the appeal of long-distance rail travel.

I hadn't taken this epic 4400km train journey from Sydney to Perth for five years, and in the meantime it's evolved into a truly impressive travel experience.

The food has has become very good indeed, often including ingredients from the region through which the train is travelling; alcoholic drinks are now included with the fare; and the off-train excursions have greatly improved.

Rather than a so-so bus tour or two, the excursions now include, for example, a wine tasting tour and dinner in the Barossa Valley outside Adelaide; and dinner at sunset at a remote Outback siding in Western Australia.

I wrote more about the Indian Pacific journey when I returned east from Perth to Adelaide.

5. Venturing beyond obvious cities and sights. As adventurous as Australian travellers are, I still meet a lot of people whose trips to Europe involve the obvious big-ticket sights and never venture east. Sure it's nice to glimpse the Mona Lisa, but if we spread around to include less-visited places we'd all feel less crowded and more stimulated.

I wrote about this for Fairfax's Traveller site in December, suggesting alternatives to the most popular (and most crowded) European hotspots. Hey, if I can spend a night in Chernobyl, you can dare to visit Budapest.

6. Hotels with windows that open. I can't stand sealed windows in hotel rooms, as sleeping under enforced air-conditioning gives me a headache. I resolve to spend 2017 requesting rooms with opening windows, and I hope you'll join me in that.

7. Airlines upsizing their Economy seating for a proportionate fee. Say, 20% more space for a 20% higher fare. OK, this is more of a wish list item than reality. But we can dream, can't we?

Friday, 7 October 2016

Laughter at LA's Comedy Store

My admission to The Comedy Store was arranged by Visit West Hollywood.

“There’s a Highway to Hell, but only a Stairway to Heaven,” says comedian Argus Hamilton, riffing on the two song titles. “That tells you a lot about the expected traffic.”

It’s an observation that resonates here inside The Comedy Store, a long-lived comedy club on LA’s infamous Sunset Strip.

Because this short stretch of Sunset Boulevard fell outside the jurisdiction of the neighbouring Los Angeles and Beverly Hills city councils, it became a racy nightlife hub in the 1920s.

Over the decades the Strip has waxed and waned in its entertainment offer, hosting nightclubs, restaurants, bars and live music, in addition to vice.

It’s also been a hub of live comedy.

Co-founded in 1972 by Mitzi Shore, the Comedy Store has hosted an array of well-known comedians, including Jim Carrey, Amy Schumer, Roseanne Barr, Billy Crystal and Chris Rock.

The only name I recognise on the bill tonight is Pauly Shore, son of the venue’s co-founder. “My whole life was a two-drink minimum,” he says, referring to the compulsory minimum drinks order that applies to every patron.

Mind you, Narrelle and I get value for our drinks, sitting amid cabaret-style seating just a few metres from the stage. Around the walls are neon portraits of legendary comedians such as the Marx Brothers, and the stage is flanked by neon swirls resembling Greek columns.

On a Friday night the space is filling with a lively crowd, with a surprisingly broad age range and the usual LA multi-ethnic mix.

There are thirteen comedians on the program, each performing a snappy set before giving way to the next.

Highlights tonight are Sarah Tiana from Georgia (she’s 38 and “not thinking of kids, thinking of cake”); veteran comedian Yakov Smirnoff with plenty to say about the US presidential election; Iliza Shlesinger with incisive material about body image; and Anthony Jeselnik, who plays with edgier themes of death and race.

To our surprise, comedian Rick Ingraham outs a guy sitting next to us as an Australian ‘snow-maker’, then riffs entertainingly on how Aussies in Los Angeles “never have proper jobs.”

After 11pm it gets tougher on the less experienced end of the bill, battling a growing restlessness among the audience. Hey, it’s LA, we all want to head to the next big thing!

We embrace the vibe and slip out before midnight, to catch an Uber to Hollywood. It’s been a fun evening though, and reflective of today’s Sunset Strip – less vice, but still a certain edgy charm.

The Comedy Store is located at 8433 Sunset Boulevard, Los Angeles, USA. See thecomedystore.com for program details.

Friday, 26 August 2016

Cheap Food of Downtown LA

I paid for my airfare to the USA, and was hosted by the Redbury Hollywood and Discover Los Angeles.

On our recent visit to Los Angeles, Narrelle Harris and I were determined to beat jet lag by staying up till night-time. As we'd arrived at LAX at 6.30am, this was no small challenge. Still, we thought we'd give it a go.

My strategy for filling the day was to introduce Narrelle to the delights of Downtown LA, an area which has had a rollercoaster ride from buzzing city hub to dodgy no-go area, then back up again, over the last century. It's a truly interesting part of LA, one more tourists should see.

Having transferred on the airport bus to the funky Redbury Hotel near Hollywood & Vine, we caught a Metro train to Pershing Square. From here it was a short walk through the lag-combating sunshine to Grand Central Market.

This sprawling collection of food outlets has been operating for almost a century, and contains a wide array of places serving everything from old-school Mexican to funky hipster food.

1. We started with a good coffee from G&B, at the Hill Street side of the market. They put together a creditable caffe latte and long black (alias a short Americano):


2. Moving through the stalls to the Broadway end of the market, we perched on stools at the bar of hip outlet Eggslut, and ordered its signature Fairfax sandwich containing scrambled eggs and chives, cheddar, caramelised onions and sriracha mayo, in a warm brioche bun. Gooey but tasty:


3. A short walk from the market was The Last Bookstore, a sprawling bookshop in a former bank vault. No food here, but always worth a visit:


4. For lunch we visited Nickel Diner, an old diner which has adopted a modern menu while carefully keeping its cool original decor. I ordered a Vegan Sloppy Joe, believe it or not (lots of beans in there, I think). It was excellent. Sadly the prices on the wall were a touch out of date:


5. It was a warm day, so we dropped into Clifton's Cafeteria for a cold drink. This amazing place was a fixture in DTLA for decades, until it closed a few years ago for renovations. Now it's back and as wacky as ever, with a kitschy fake forest interior complete with stuffed animals:



6. The next day we had lunch at Philippe the Original, an old-school diner on the edge of Chinatown. It's famous for its "French-dipped" roast beef sandwiches, and also does a great veggie omelette on a bed of hash browns in the morning:


7. One Downtown cheap eatery we didn't visit this time was Bronzed Aussie. But if you just can't cope with LA without eating a genuine Aussie meat pie, this is the place for you:



Bon appetit!

Friday, 5 August 2016

Welcome to the Uber California


My Uber stood in the doorway
I heard the mission bell
And I was thinking to myself
This could be heaven or this could be hell

Something different on my latest visit to the USA was my vastly increased use of Uber, the transport service that allows riders to book trips via a dedicated app.

I'd dallied with Uber on my 2015 US visit, using it for a handful of rides in LA, Portland and Seattle. But this time Narrelle and I used the service extensively, partly because Discover Los Angeles and Visit San Luis Obispo County covered my Uber expenses in their respective cities.

In total, we used Uber 28 times across these four cities:
  • Los Angeles: 20 rides.
  • San Diego: 3 rides.
  • Santa Barbara: 2 rides.
  • San Luis Obispo: 3 rides.

As this was the first time I'd used the service so extensively overseas, here are some observations from the viewpoint of a foreign traveller...

Convenience.

For ease of use, Uber beats catching a local taxi hands-down. To call a local cab, you generally have to find the right phone number, ring it and relay your location (though some local cab services might have their own apps, which you'd have to identify and download).

By contrast, with Uber I occasionally needed to adjust the location pin in the app to precisely show where we were, then entered our destination by name (eg California Science Center). There was never a need to enter an address if we were headed to a business or other landmark.

After registering a request, we had onscreen indication of how far away the Uber car is, as well as its make and registration number.

My only problem with this was that the app's font size was tiny, making it difficult to read the car's number. Also the reliance on giving you the make of car assumes you recognise car makes, which I don't. But there was usually a small colour photo of the vehicle to help.

An odd and disconcerting quirk was that several Uber cars lacked number plates, which apparently is OK in California in the interval between buying one's car and the plates arriving.

Comfort.

Except for one occasion, we used the Uber X service, a notch above the cheapest shared-car option known as Uber Pool. Understandably for a big city like LA, Uber X drivers would often own small vehicles with tight turning circles which could easily manoeuvre through congested traffic.

That did mean, however, that two big people like us often had difficulty squeezing in and out of these compact cars, and getting fiddly rear seatbelts to fasten. On one occasion a sportier make of car was extremely difficult to get into, though once slotted into the front seat I was comfortable enough.

Safety.

Nearly all the drivers we used were safe on the roads, tackling traffic conditions well without taking risks. We resultingly gave them a five-star rating via the app (the ratings are used by Uber to disqualify drivers who fall below a set level).

The two exceptions were drivers who hadn't installed a cradle for their phones, so would shift their attention between the road and the phones in their hands. Not an experience you feel entirely safe with as a passenger.

In both cases we gave these drivers a lower rating than the usual five stars, and for one driver we followed it up with comments which were later acknowledged by Uber.

Cost.

Uber seemed reasonably priced, even in a big city like LA where congestion could slow things down. Several of our Los Angeles trips landed between US$5-10, with a few longer ones around US$20.

In LA we still occasionally used public transport, which was great value at $1.75 per trip and could be congestion-free if travelling via the Metro subway/light rail network.

In other places, though, Uber was sometimes an affordable alternative to public transport. On our last day in San Diego we planned to visit Balboa Park with its many museums (see photo above). Two bus fares from the Downtown to the park's vicinity would have cost US$4.50, whereas Uber got us there for US$5.75. It was worth the extra buck for the door-to-door convenience and saved time.

Payment.

This was the single most attractive advantage of Uber over traditional taxis. When each trip ended, we said goodbye and got out. End of story - no mucking around with foreign cash or credit cards. That really is a great convenience for travellers.

There was some discussion earlier this year whether Uber drivers should be tipped, after Uber said it would neither encourage nor discourage tipping.

Personally I think the introduction of cash tipping would be a disaster. The seamless cash-free aspect of Uber payment is one of its greatest assets.

The drivers. 

We had conversations with nearly all of our drivers, especially since I often sat in the front passenger seat where it was easy to talk. I was interested in whether the drivers were doing the job full-time or part-time, and whether they were able to make enough money for it to be worthwhile.

The responses were an interesting mix. Many were driving for Uber full-time, but there was a large number of drivers who fitted it in part-time around other jobs or activities.

There was a 9-to-5 accountant who drove on weekends because he liked the interaction; a musician who was often away touring but drove between tours; and students who drove when they had free time, to make some extra money. For these people, the flexibility of the gig was a big drawcard.

Only one driver specifically said she felt they didn't earn enough money, and thought LA's cheap public transport fares should be raised so Uber fares could go up too (a position I couldn't agree with, on equity as well as environmental grounds).

I was interested by how few women were Uber drivers, given the greater security from Uber knowing the identity of riders. Only two of our 28 drivers were female. Our first woman driver really enjoyed the job though, and had decked out her car with leopard-print seat covers to mark out a visual difference.

Interestingly, all of our drivers in LA were either Latino or black, and all young; not surprising perhaps for such an ethnically diverse city, but it did make me wonder if white guys weren't attracted to driving for Uber in Los Angeles for some reason.

In the other three cities there was more diversity in age and background, though we didn't have any female drivers outside LA.

The verdict.

Uber was much more pleasant to use than regular taxis, especially in LA; I'd used cabs there before and they'd presented all the shortcomings I'd noted in taxi services in Australia.

For a traveller in a foreign country, Uber is particularly appealing for two reasons: there's no need to handle unfamiliar cash, and you don't need a deep understanding of the local geography as the app handles that for you. These aspects were both much appreciated by us in California.

If I'd been paying for all my Uber use, however, I would have used it significantly less in Los Angeles and used public transport more. LA's Metro trains and buses are generally modern, clean and efficient, and great value with their US$1.75 single-trip fares.

That said, Uber was very handy for short time-saving trips, especially in less congested locations (eg we used it once to get to and from a laundromat in Santa Barbara). On top of that, we got to meet a random bunch of cheerful locals. I'll be using the service again, when on the road.

Tuesday, 2 August 2016

Life is a Cabaret (in LA)


I was provided with tickets to Cabaret by Visit California.

We're sitting in the Pantages Theatre in Hollywood. The music strikes up and the Emcee of Cabaret bursts onstage, and the audience erupts in applause. "My god, it's an American audience," I think. "They'll cheer everything."

Except... it works. By virtue of the famous musical's staging, we the audience are also the audience of the Kit Kat Klub within the story. The lively response of an American audience fits neatly with the raucous imaginary nightclub in interwar Berlin, so much so that the Emcee can confidently indulge in a little audience participation after the show's interval.

And what an excellent show it proves to be. To be frank, I'm here mostly because I want to have a look inside the Pantages. Situated near the corner of Hollywood & Vine, it's a gem of a venue that was once a spectacular cinema. Nowadays it's a live theatre venue, and its interior is a riot of extravagant art deco styling.

I'm craning my head to admire the complex, decorative ceiling within the auditorium, while members of the cast wander around on stage as if warming up. Then suddenly we're off, and I'm reminded how this story has played a repeated role in my life. 

As a kid, interested in history, the bittersweet journey of Cabaret's English teacher/novelist was fascinating. I can't help thinking it must have influenced me in later doing a similar thing myself, teaching English to students in Central Europe (in this case, Poland rather than Germany) in the 1990s.

Anyway, back to the show. This LA production is based on the groundbreaking 1993 London production by director Sam Mendes, a version of which I've seen before in Melbourne. It's an excellent updating of the musical for the 21st century, heightening the bisexuality of the novelist character, Clifford Bradshaw, and weaving a sexual fluidity through the whole production. 

There are now featured cabaret boys as well as cabaret girls, and a sexual ambiguity to a great many characters. This was an excellent decision of Mendes', underlining the breaking down of old social norms and conservative certainties in the angst of the era. 

It's not a cheery environment to live in. The past has died, the future has yet to be born - and what a terrifying future it will be once it arrives, as we're constantly reminded by references to the rise of Nazism. In such barren soil, love cannot succeed; so the romantic relationships of both Bradshaw and Sally Bowles, and of Herr Schultz and Fraulein Schneider, are doomed.

Seeing this staged in the USA during the current presidential campaign unavoidably sets the mind drifting to demagogues and public anger and hate speech, happening much closer to the venue than 1930s Berlin. I don't think the production team intended to have us considering the onset of authoritarianism in relation to current events, but musing on such matters adds a certain extra something to the evening.

Technically speaking, it's a fine production. The dancers are lithe, energetic and appealingly sleazy; the singers are strong-voiced; and the dramatic passages are ably performed. Randy Harrison (probably best remembered as youngest cast member of the US version of TV series Queer as Folk) is an excellent Emcee, with his endless sexual appetite and refusal to take anything seriously; while Lee Aaron Rosen makes a likeable and sympathetic Clifford Bradshaw.

Oddly, as Bradshaw's character is expanded by the exploration of his bisexuality, that of Sally Bowles (Andrea Goss) seems to shrink. She's certainly less substantial and mock-confident than the movie version played by Liza Minnelli, though this may indeed have been the intention of her original creator, author Christopher Isherwood. 

This version of Cabaret is well worth seeing, and not just for the splendour of its venue. The musical still has something to say to us, living in similarly troubled times.

Cabaret runs to 7 August 2016 at the Pantages Theatre, Hollywood; click here for booking details.

Tuesday, 19 July 2016

Lights! Camera! Burbank! The Warner Brothers Studio Tour

I was a guest of Warner Brothers on its studio tour, and was assisted by Discover Los Angeles on my LA visit.

In Los Angeles once again, I was keen to join the Warner Brothers Studio Tour. 

I'd been on it once before while researching a story about four LA studio tours, and was curious to see how its new Stage 48 section had developed over the past year. It would also be an opportunity for Narrelle Harris to see it with me. She's just as much a movie fan as I am, so we were looking forward to the experience.

Stage 48 had opened just before my 2015 visit. The finale to the traditional tour of Warner's back lot and front lot, it's a facility which takes visitors through all the stages of film-making. 

To my mind, it makes the WB tour the best of the studio tours for those interested in the process of movie-making, as it adds content to the glamour. 

The tour starts in Burbank, which I had previously learned via a taxi voucher drama is not actually in Los Angeles; it's technically a separate city. 

Arriving by Uber this time, I saw Bugs Bunny and Daffy Duck (my favourite Looney Tune) waiting in the forecourt, not far from the famous water tank with the Warner Brothers logo:



After an introductory video, tour members boarded a cart which took us through the back lot. These make-believe streets and neighbourhoods stand in for various locations via deft changes to signage and the odd spot of CGI. 

This 'jungle' is perfect for tropical scenes; though Jurassic Park was filmed in Hawaii, one or two additional scenes were filmed here:


What's more common on the back lot are mock urban streets, which feel a touch creepy via their lack of people and the absence of signage on their buildings (which is added as needed):




Midway through the tour we were taken to an exhibition building with two floors: one exhibiting Harry Potter costumes and props, the other devoted to superheroes. 

Last year the ground floor had featured Batman costumes and items from the then upcoming Batman vs Superman movie. This year it was preparing the ground for the upcoming Justice League movie via a DC Universe display, with each character featured above an original comic book containing one of their earliest appearances:




Beyond this was the excellent Wonder Woman costume as worn by Gal Gadot in Batman vs Superman:


Further on was a series of large portraits (along with some props) from the upcoming Suicide Squad movie, about a pack of DC villains forced to operate as a team. 

I'd read the comic book back in the 1980s and liked the concept; a team of villains was always going to have some entertaining flaws. And I loved this glimpse of the costumes, which indicated the designers at least have caught some of the anarchic humour and drama of the comic book:




We then toured another building full of Batmobiles, and had a look at the set of a TV show currently being shot (at which we were forbidden from taking photos).

At the conclusion of the tour, we were deposited at Stage 48 and told we could spend as as much time as we liked there.

It was great. Taking our time, Narrelle and I wandered through the initial section devoted to screenwriting, casting and costuming, where Narrelle took the opportunity to design her own customised lemon-coloured Batmobile:




Then we passed the original Friends set to find an exhibition of Mad Max: Fury Road costumes...


... into the more technical area which covered such techniques as green screen, forced perspective, CGI and motion capture:




One of the best exhibits was near the end of the tour. Visitors sat within a separate room with a big screen, viewing four versions of a short scene from Gravity with different aspects of its sound added. It was a great overview of the complexity of sound in a big motion picture.

The tour was fun and we'd learnt a lot. All that remained was to collect our Oscars for Best Tour Member in a Supporting Role:



We only hung onto the statue briefly, but it was a real Oscar. Heavy too, around 4 kilograms in weight. It'd make a great paperweight on one's award-winning writer's desk.

Read more and book tickets for the Warner Brothers Studio Tour by clicking here. For more about the attractions of LA, visit Discover Los Angeles.